After much anticipation, but some fairly last minute planning (compared to my usual anyway) Tara and I set out on Friday morning on our trip to Dakar for the second road trip of this month! As this Monday is The Gambia’s independence day we had opted for the cheapest option of travelling overland for the ~300K journey and had been given instructions by other VSO and Peace Corps volunteers on exactly how to travel there on the public transport.
Ready to go!
The journey there was an adventure in itself… we caught a taxi to Banjul, then a small boat, called a Pirogue across the river Gambia, another taxi, then, after walking across the border between The Gambia and Senegal a motorbike taxi to the waiting sept plas taxis (7 seater cars) that would take us the rest of the way to Dakar. There are 2 ways of crossing the River Gambia from Banjul to Barra, the first is the main ferry, which can take both foot passengers and cars and is the cheapest option at 10dalasis, but there are often long queues and delays if the current of the water is flowing in the opposite direction or the engines fail (a frequent occurrence!) Tara had crossed on the Pirogues when she went up-country a few weeks ago so we decided to brave that option. The Pirogues are small wooden boats sat in the shallows of the river, to board them you have to climb up onto someone’s shoulders who then carries you to the boat and you climb aboard from there… no mean feat carrying our luggage and handbags, I had a scraped knee and very shaky legs by the time we sat down to watch the water pouring in through the cracks in the side of the boat and wait for it to fill up before departure! Before it left to make the crossing 2 boys had to bail out the water whilst someone else passed around lifejackets (received gratefully!) and another collected the fare of 15dalasis. The crossing itself took a mere 20min and before I knew it I was climbing onto another person’s shoulders once again, with my feet dangling in the water, being carried ashore to jump in another taxi!
On the Pirogue….
Sitting in the Sept-plas, listening to my ipod, watching the Senegalese countryside pass by the window I felt ridiculously content and excited about seeing another part of Africa and pleased to be out of The Gambia for the weekend…. that was for the first hour anyway… 200k of potholes, unmade roads and swerving to avoid goats later I was patting myself on the back for remembering to take my travel sickness tablets that morning and feeling rather windswept from sitting next to the open window for the entire journey.
Almost 11 hours after I left my little house in Fajara that morning we pulled up into the city… and a city it is! Tara and I stared open-mouthed at the tall buildings, the traffic, the motorway with road markings and signs and the bright lights… we couldn’t believe we were still in Africa! As we were feeling a little jaded from the journey, Friday night we just checked into the hotel, showered and ate (an amazing burger from a place across from the hotel) and headed to bed so we could wake up and start the next day fresh.
The next morning, we set out into downtown Dakar, armed with the lonely planet, ready to do some sight-seeing!! First stop, by popular demand, was the Senegal airlines office to book a flight home…. spoilt children as we are, we had decided that one experience of the overland journey was enough and we’d fly back, thank you very much!! Haha! Once we had booked the flight successfully and had a little wonder round the city streets we headed to the Institute de Francais to look round the grounds and stop in Le Bideew cafe for lunch. Both Tara and I have been craving nice salads for a while so the menu here of fresh, healthy food was like heaven and we both chose without difficulty.
Healthy eating in Le Bideew Cafe, Institute de Francais
After lunch we headed over to the Ile De Goree, a short 30min ferry ride off the coast of Dakar, the island was where the slaves used to be held before being shipped away and is now a haven of museums, gorgeous colonial buildings and small restaurants. We wandered round taking photos and marvelling at the different buildings and structures, having Tara with me made me really appreciate it as she was so enthusiastic about the different aspects of the architecture. The island felt very Mediterranean, with brightly coloured buildings, narrow alleyways and the sun streaming through trees. We had a short foray in the tourist market, where we both made some nice purchases after bargaining harder than the traders there expected (we upset a few people, but got our own way in the end!) then we sat looking over the beach and jetty drinking coffee and eating crepes au chocolat while we waited for our ferry back to the mainland!
Buying fruit on Ile De Goree
Tara walking the street of Goree
Looking back at the Dakar Skyline
Saturday night we had been invited to a party being held by the Peace corps, who were all gathered in Dakar for a west Africa international baseball tournament called Waste. We were quite tired after a long day sight-seeing but decided to pop in to say hi and grab a beer on our way back to the hotel. We pulled up in the taxi at the venue of the party and felt like we were in another country completely…. we were at a large bowling alley at a mall, with bright lights and pumping music… and about 100 American Peace Corps volunteers…. talk about culture shock, it felt like I’d closed my eyes and opened them in the US! Even after our day in the city the contrast made both mine and Tara’s head spin so after just one beer we made our excuses and left for the hotel!
In the bowling Alley…bit confused as to which country we’re in!!
After our busy day in downtown Dakar on Saturday we headed north to Ngor for the day on Sunday. First stop was the Village des arts, a Village where about 20 artists have workshops and you can wander round the gardens where their work is displayed. It was very peaceful to walk around, dipping in and out of the building, watching the artists at work and admiring the pieces. I’m no art connoisseur but I could tell there were some brilliant pieces there, and if I hadn’t been worried about getting it back to The Gambia in one piece I would have bought at least one item! After our stroll round the village we spent the afternoon relaxing with a coke on Ngor beach, looking out at the Ile de Ngor, a small island popular with surfers, and reading our books. Although we spend a lot of time on the beach in The Gambia, this was a totally different experience, packed with parasols, deck chairs and tourists… it made us homesick for our beautiful stretches of deserted white sand beach that we have got so accustomed to!
The Garden at The Village Des Arts
Afternoon relaxing!
We had one more stop before it was time to check in at the airport for our 11pm flight home… and that was tapas and sunset drinks at a gorgeous restaurant in Des Almadies called Restaurant Le Ngor. One we picked out in the lonely planet, the building is adorned with seashells and bright colours, and again felt very Mediterranean… a feeling made stronger by the meal of tapas we enjoyed whilst watching a vibrant sunset! As we sipped our beer and ate our meal of calamari, tempura vegetables and beef in tomato sauce peahens flew onto the bamboo roof above our heads, a peacock roamed the beach and some storks were sleeping just outside the entrance… a great way to end our Dakar weekend!
Beautiful Senegalese sunset!
So after we spent a gruelling 10 hours travelling overland to Dakar from Banjul, we flew a mere 30 minutes back!! 10 times the price of the journey for 20 times less the time… totally worth it!!! All in all an amazing weekend, a taste of city life, a bit of culture shock, a chance to practice speaking French, some good sightseeing, delicious food and beer that wasn’t Julbrew! What a great way to mark my halfway point of my placement here with VSO. It’s amazing that just 2 days away from The Gambia has made me miss it and reinforced how much I love the country… even with the stresses and annoyances, I missed the friendliness of the locals, the long stretches of beach, the quietness…. It was nice to feel the vibrancy of a city again but I felt relieved to arrive back and am excited to walk down to Leybato and have a relaxed beach day today!